Flight from Bucharest to Athens was delayed by 2 hours, so we did not get to our overnight accommodation until around 11pm. We had found a family run hotel close to Athens airport and, with a free shuttle service to and from the airport and breakfast included, it is an ideal place to stay when going into Athens is un-necessary. Some plane noise, so ear plugs are recommended and it is furnished simply but with a very comfortable bed, nice bed linen, decent bathroom and great people running it. It's called Peri's hotel. The best part was getting the perspective of a local on the current political situation on the ride back to the airport.

Then to Icaria Island. We were met there by Aliki's brother in law Nick, who lives in Adelaide but returns regularly to his home in Greece. He took us on a tour of the Eastern end, including lunch in a local taverna and coffee in the main town. Lovely bloke, and so proud of his heritage and the beautifu place he grew up in. For good reason!! It is a glorious place and relatively un-touched by tourism. It's the Island where people live in good health to a ripe old age (There was a 60 minutes program on it some time back). Very laid back, independent and proud people, great food (nothing processed) locally made wine with only sulphur to preserve it, a real sense of community are some of the factors.
It was amusing travelling with Nick - everyone we came across was a cousin at some level or someone he went to school with. The affection these people have for one another was very obvious.
These photos speak for themselves:
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| Therma - there are radioactive thermal baths here |
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| Taverna lunch at Therma |
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| The capital, Agious Kyrios |
Our apartment is at Arministis on the North side of the island. It is described as "the most touristy area" but that is a relative term! We have glorious views from our balcony and even from the kitchen sink:
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| Balcony view front on |
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| View from sink |
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| Balcony view - right |
The second night we drove up into the hills to Nick's Village for their annual Independence day festival (Panygyri). Everyone from near and far comes up and sits on big trestle tables in the main square (and beyond). There is locally made food, a band, dancing - traditional Greek style- loads of local wine and a lot of tradition in the way it all happens. We only lasted until 1:00pm, partly because we had a 40 minute drive down a steep, narrow, twisty, unlit, bumpy road, but they go on half the night. Even at that time there were still many cars and motor bikes coming up to the village.
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| The village |
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| Nick, Kosta and Aliki's property (right below the the village square) |
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| The band setting up |
Then last night we drove to the next village from Armenistis called Nas (about 5 mins drive) to a cliff top taverna (Anna's) for a great local meal and to watch the sunset. Anna herself is very welcoming and invites you into the kitchen to see what is available and choose your food. There is not much fresh seafood around (not a good season) but we had swordfish caught in the bay at the front of the restaurant.
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